by Barbara Fairchild

In case you hadn't noticed, 1997 was a boom year. Here in the latter part of "The Roaring Nineties," the economy is the strongest it has been in years, and it comes as no surprise-but as a great relief-that the restaurant business has followed suit. With so much happening on the dining-out front, it was harder that usual to narrow down the list of all that was hot.

In restaurant crazy San Francisco, meanwhile, one of the brightest of the new lights is the seafood-oriented Farallon. Even the decor is fishy, thanks to noted interior designer Pat Kuleto's whimsical sense of style-there are jellyfish chandeliers and fanciful shellfish "fossil" sconces, and the kitchen-fan hood is covered with copper fish scales.

The decor might be lighthearted, but chef Mark Franz's menu is serious and sophisticated, with a cosmopolitan selection that reflects his knowledge of the city's tastes (he spent more than ten years in the kitchen at Jeremiah Tower's Stars). Ginger-steamed wild salmon and striped bass "pillows" with crayfish mousse and foie gras coulis deserve attention as innovative combinations and for their delicate, rich flavors: and the "hot pot" of fish, shellfish and sesame glass noodles is a clever take on a classic Vietnamese dish.

Save room for dessert, which comes from the talented hands of another Stars alum, renowned pastry chef Emily Luchetti. What a treat it is to top off a excellent meal with Luchetti's caramel chocolate "brulee" (in a buttery crust) or passion-fruit cake with ginger sabayon.